Most travellers from the Dogu Express stay in Kars for just one night before crossing into Georgia. I stayed a week. Tucked deep in Eastern Turkey, Kars feels both remote and layered — a place shaped by borders, history and various empires. From its towering citadel to the haunting ruins of Ani, once an Armenian capital, it’s a region that sits quietly at the edge.
“The train follows the river Euphrates for some of the journey and that brought back memories of learning ancient history in school and how civilisation started in the Euphrates valley, but obviously downstream from here and into Syria and Iraq. On occasion I could hear the river rushing downstream when the train was quieter or had stopped en route.”
I feel a little sad that my childhood love of flags has become so tarnished and I really wish I could get back to seeing them with a neutral eye, but there is no going back.
“Considering travelling from Istanbul to Ankara by train? Here’s what my journey was like, with tips, surprises along the way, and what to expect when you arrive.”
Discover what it’s like to spend a month in Madrid’s Ensanche de Vallecas — from rain-soaked streets and long metro rides to local bars, cat cafés, and unexpected adventures.