Whilst I was staying in Huy, Belgium – I decided to look at other travel blog posts and came across a really moving one from a blog / website called Cultura Obscura – which specialises in something called “dark tourism.” Now the definition of this is, according to their website; “(it) refers to tourism to sites of mass tragedy and death.” The post I read was one about Lidice Museum and memorial near Prague, Czechia. This was a part of WW2 history that I didn’t know about and I found the post moving not just about the events which happened in the past, but the small snippets which brought the post back into the present day – with the blogging couple squeezing each-other’s hands, and walking back to the bus-stop etc.
After leaving a comment about how well written I thought the piece was – I thought, “hang on … I am in Huy which has its own piece of WW2 history –could this be a sign that I need to go and check it out?”
So on my last day in Huy – after a week of hot sunny weather – il pleut! I got soaked to the skin just walking into the town. Then inexplicably I lost my way. I had been past the citadel / fort a couple of times before and it is on the banks of the Meuse the major river that runs through Huy – so it can hardly be missed, but I missed it. After backtracking and then walking through a railway tunnel which was signed as closed to pedestrians (!) I made my way to the entrance.
On arrival, the first thing that struck me was that the Citadel is not somewhere for people with mobility problems. Over 7,000 prisoners were held there between 1940 and 1944 and I should imagine the march up to the entrance was gruelling enough. There is a zig-zag path (with a bench, thoughtfully placed at each bend) and then 2 sets of steep stairs to negotiate to get to the main entrance. Once there (an “ouvrir” sign was on the door – to my relief) you have to ring a bell twice to be let in. The sound of footsteps coming towards you and the unbattening of the big heavy door is probably done for effect – but it was quite chilling. It cost 4 euro to look around (2 euro for children,) which allows you to visit some of the prison cells and interrogation rooms, a deep well, a running video of witness testimonies (shot in the 1970s I think,) a couple of small exhibition areas and out onto the roof of the building for the stunning views.
Of course, the building was there long before the second world war. There was a castle on the site from the 10th century and the well, which you can see, dates from the 16th century; but the current citadel dates mainly from 1818 – 1823. There is an explanation of why the building was reconstructed and some of the earlier inhabitants – but like all the exhibits in the building, they are only in French and Flemish – so I could only get a sketchy feel for what was said there.
It is in the second part of the tour that the WW2 connection comes through – with an exhibit of an interrogation chamber and the washrooms and dungeon cells that were used to hold resistance fighters and people of the town who were later removed to the concentration camps.
I guess this is the part of the exhibition which counts as “dark tourism.” But how dark was it? The rooms were 4 bare walls and in some there was a bucket and a chair. Only the end rooms had access to light and I have to confess – would I want to see out into greenery through the slit windows, when I am incarcerated for who knows how long? Would seeing that be too much to bear?
I shut the door of one of the cells and tried to imagine being a political prisoner in the 1940s – not knowing my fate. It’s hard to do. As a child, I was once locked in a railway cattle wagon and immediately thoughts of being transported to concentration camps came to mind. But then they faded as daylight and reality hit, and I cycled home to Mum.
I find I can no longer imagine what incarceration is like any more than I can imagine what aerial bombardment is like. Or what it is like to be a starving child in the Yemen in 2019. Let’s face it awful things are happening right now, we do not need to go back in time to see them. I wasn’t shocked by the conditions, I know about man’s inhumanity to man; but maybe it is good to be reminded of how sadistic we, as humans, can be. It left me wondering …
Beyond the cells there is then a small collection of artefacts to do with the resistance and Belgium nationalism – but again without an English translation I could only get a gist of what it all meant. I did work out that the most famous in-mate appeared to be
Beyond the cells there is then a small collection of artefacts to do with the resistance and Belgium nationalism – but again without an English translation I could only get a gist of what it all meant. I did work out that the most famous in-mate appeared to be Julien Lahaut a Belgian politician and communist leader who was taken from Huy to a concentration camp in Mauthausen, Austria but survived until the allies liberated it. He was eventually assassinated, (possibly by Belgian Royalists – although the actual murderers are still unknown,) in 1950 and 300,000 people are said to have attended his funeral.
Beyond the WW2 gallery is a (very) steep staircase to the roof of the citadel and the amazing 360 degree views – of the town, the River Meuse and the valley beyond. I have to say, this for me was the best part of the visit – and thankfully the rain had stopped when I got up there! I was even able to work out where I had taken my wrong turning and so my route back to my digs. I took a number of photographs from there before wandering my weary way back home.
So, what did I learn from the experience? Well it wasn’t on the same level as Lidice, although the fort is marketed as, “offering a real insight into Nazi concentration camps.” The other thing I couldn’t help but notice was how uncared for the place felt. Not only were there lots of repairs needed, broken steps etc., but the day-to-day stuff seemed to have been forgotten. For example, I visited at 10.30 in the morning and there was hardly anyone else there, but the bins in the washrooms were full to overflowing. I was a little surprised as the site is one of Belgian national importance – I expected more.
I have to say, I wouldn’t have gone there if there hadn’t been the prompt from the cultura obscura blog. Overall though, I was glad I went. I felt it was a challenge to get there, (it is accessible by a funicular railway, which, of course, was closed for refurbishment at the time of my visit,) and I felt quite proud of my achievement when I was taking photographs from the top. Not bad for a 62 year old fat man! It has made me think more about our shared history – especially as; a) I am spending next month in Germany and, b) I spent last month in Ireland where most of the national monuments depict the UK as the aggressor. So thankful that we can live in relative peace now.
I also think that it is important that these facts about our history are not forgotten. Huy citadel is not just important to the Belgians, there was letters praising the resistance fighters from Allied high commanders such as Lord Mountbatten. It would be good if the exhibits could be translated into more languages other than French and Flemish. Not just English but maybe Spanish and dare I say German – so that this wouldn’t be just seen as a part of Belgian history but that of Europe as a whole. Dark Tourism – I’m not sure … I would be interested in what YOU think. Please feel free to leave a comment.
Comments
Thanks Steev. The concept of Dark Tourism is new to me. Over the years I have visited several sites of atrocities, seeking to bear witness, and gain some understanding of the depths of human cruelty. But I am shocked each time, and need to focus on building ways to prevent future barbarity.
Hey Steev! I’m glad to hear that our post inspired you to check out some dark tourism on your own. I think these sites are incredibly important so that hopefully we remember and learn from them. So far that doesn’t seem to be the case, but I have hope. Huy Citadel sounds very interesting, and I had in fact not heard of it before reading your post. Not gonna lie, the walk up sounds grueling, and it’s unfortunate it hasn’t had better upkeep. Will definitely add it to the list if we find ourselves in the area. Hope you enjoy the rest of your travels!
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